Asparagus: vegetable, miracle

In Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle -- the story of her family's one-year experiment with "deliberately eating food produced in the same place where we worked, loved our neighbors, drank the water, and breathed the air" -- she, her spouse and their two daughters spend a year eating what grows. Not just buying what's available at the supermarket, but looking around, waking up to what's actually growing at any given time, and eating it. She writes about the notion of a genuine food culture, by which she means an affinity between people and the land that feeds them. This affinity, this genuine food culture, is a sequence of steps people can take, like this:
Step one, probably is to live on the land that feeds them, or at least on the same continent, ideally the same region. Step two is to be able to countenance the ideas of "food" and "dirt" in the same sentence, and three is to start poking into one's supply chain to learn where things are coming from.
I'll be honest about a couple of things right off the bat. As a small-time suburban farmer -- I refer to my place as a "farmlet" -- I have loved growing food and composting and digging in the dirt for a long time now, regaining what I think my French grandmother knew all along about growing potatoes and pansies and looking out over rows of pretty plants while the birds sing their song, something about peace and simple satisfaction and good taste. Next, even though I had every intention of doing so, I haven't finished reading Kingsolver's book -- held up by two things: first my sense that the book itself should take a year to read, to track along with her and her family, month by month, all that they learned through their experience; next, that the tendentious preachy parts (which I skip) do tend to turn me off. YES, Amen sister-girl on the need to buy organic, on the need to stop spraying. YES, gotcha: now stop that sermon and rhapsodize some more about vegetables.
Because vegetables, vegetables are a miracle to behold. And that's enough for me. I LOVE reading about someone else's experience, their falling into love with the smell of soil, with the pea pods on the vine, the funny parent-like emotion at seeing a plant bud out (My baby is growing up!!). But I'm a little impatient with the preachy, as much as I appreciate that it needs doing and that somebody needs to hear it. Somebody will read this and their life will change utterly.
I am certain of this because it's absolutely 100% true that Joe and I were spurred along in our suburban farming by a book we found remaindered in 1990, which we both read and re-read, and which has since gone missing, loaned to someone at some point along the years and never returned. A Small Farm in Maine, with its story of two publishing professionals who leave their careers and move to Hedgehog Hill Farm, learn to farm and make a living from their labors, filled our imaginations with possibilities. And we've grown food every year ever since. As I'm writing this, I just ordered a used copy of the book from Amazon for $1.89 + shipping, and learned the sad news that Terry Silber, the wife of the pair, died of cancer in 2003. Her ashes were spread at the farm, which closed in 2006. Sad but also, in its way, perfectly fitting.
I am convinced that the lot of every person walking this earth can be improved by the simple action of planting seeds and harvesting food, that there is little more worth knowing than the flavor of a spear of asparagus fresh from the ground.
Asparagus is a true miracle, one which is just beginning to emerge from its patch in our farmlet, tender purple and green buds breaking the soil. It's the beacon, the first glimpse of delicious spring. Asparagus is also the place where I know Kingsolver and I are kin.
I sweated to dig [asparagus] into countless yards I was destined to leave behind, for no better reason than that I believe in vegetables in general, and this one in particular. Gardeners are widely known and mocked for this sort of fanaticism. But other people fast or walk long pilgrimages to honor the spirit of what they believe makes our world whole and lovely. If we gardeners can, in the same spirit, put our heels to the shovel, kneel before a trench holding tender roots, and then wait three years for an edible incarnation of the spring equinox, who's to make the call between ridiculous and reverent?
I'm eating this book slowly, allowing it to accompany what's unfolding in the garden around me. I can't imagine reading April right now, in the throes of February as we are. There's time. In gardening, there's always time. We're encouraged to rock back on the heels of our gardening clogs and slow down -- waiting, eyes wide, for the wonder that's inevitably coming, that can't and won't be rushed.
If you're seeking inspiration, something to spur you down the garden path or simply another way to think about food, pick up Animal, Vegetable, Miracle and check it out. Or just come over sometime, in some clothes you're not too fussy about, get down on hands and knees, and rejoice in what the ground can do for us.
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Could you live an entire year eating locally or the food from your garden? Barbara Kingsolver transplanted her family from the deserts of Arizona to the mountains of Virginia for their endeavor. Join From Left to Write on February 21 as we discuss Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver. As a member of From Left to Write, I received a copy of the book. All opinions are my own.




